The average scribe is 1/2", but surveying the walls is the best way to determine the overall scribe. Scribes for upper cabinets are generally used when it is high-end millwork. That way, when I draw the cabinet up tight to the wall, the knife-like edge of the 30-degree bevel actually cuts into the sheet rock for a "blackout" fit. I like to bevel my scribe cuts severely (30 degrees) and cut them "heavy". For high-end kitchens, these unusually out of plumb conditions were accommodated in the shop by providing extra scribe material on the cabinets or end panels. Refrigerator end panels and the like were usually sized an inch or so over, and scribed.ĭuring the first early walk-through for a kitchen, I'm always on the lookout for walls that are way out of plumb. The custom shops I installed for typically provided 1/2 an inch of extended scribe material on the back of the cabinet, and this worked in most cases. If it's production work, a scribe mold often is acceptable (the profile I use is most closely compared to door stop). It tends to be the higher end kitchens I install that get scribed to the walls. ![]() Since suspended ceilings are flexible, you can run your cabinets very close to the ceiling and use shims on top of the cabinets to level it to the cabinets.Does everyone scribe cabinet uppers and lowers to the wall? If yes, how much overhang do you need on the back of the cabinet? Do any of you use Z-clips to attach the cabinets? Does it help with scribing? You do see cabinets tight to the ceiling in commercial applications frequently, but usually that is with a suspended acoustic ceiling. Fill that space with a fascia board and crown for a traditional look. A two or three inch reveals, on the other hand, and the variations in the ceiling are hardly noticeable. That is why you hardly ever see cabinets going all the way to a drywall ceiling. Holding them back 1/8" or so does look better than trying to flush them, as Bill said earlier.Īnother thing to think about - since drywall ceilings are anything but level, the smaller you try to make the reveal between the cabinets and ceiling, the more obvious the defects in the ceiling become. If not, you are cutting fillers and scribing them in. Show that detail on your approval set, and hope he signs it off. You can leave the top open, tell the architect that's "True Euro" (a la Dario) and see if he buys it. With all that in mind, holding your cabs at least 3/4" short is a good idea. And keep in mind, if you don't hold the doors at least 1/2" short of the ceiling one or two of them might not open without hitting the ceiling. You'll probably have up to a 1/2" "speed bump" or two on the front of your cabinets where a warped joist is. You can figure that drywall on a wood stud ceiling will probably be drooping 1/4" from the wall to the front of your cabinets. What kind of ceiling are you doing - drywall or suspended acoustic tile? And the doors don't rub on top if the ceiling dips really badly. It looks really nice and clean with the continuous strip along the top. The strip face is flush with the door faces when done. ![]() Then I fill between the top of the door to the ceiling with a 1 5/16" wide strip scribed to fit the ceiling. I also build them so that the door overlay on the top is only 3/8" and add a strip to the top of the cab for a nailer. If the ceiling heights are right your 42" uppers should be 54" off the floor give or take a little. Make sure to set the strip back from the edge of the cabs leave an 1/8 to 1/4 reveal looks better than flush. Running Frameless Cabinets to the Ceiling with euro style cabs use a 5/8 starter strip at ceiling scribe it level and butt your cabs to the strip. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Should I make the boxes a couple inches short to maintain the correct spacing between the counter top and the bottom of the upper cabinets? Any help is appreciated. At this point I assume you leave the cabinet a couple inches below the ceiling and then use filler scribed between the top of the cabinets and ceiling? I’m also thinking with and 8’ ceiling. I would like to know how everyone handles the install. I know the ceiling is anything but flat and level. The Architect calls for 42-inch uppers to go to the ceiling. We will soon be making my own set of frameless cabinets.
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